姫路 Himeji (castle and garden)

At the end of our final sight-seeing trip, we finally made it to Himeji. This is perhaps the best example of the height of Japanese castle building still in its original condition. Most of the castles in Japan were destroyed during the fire bombing of WWII. This castle and a few others are all that have remained intact. We were lucky to get there just in time for the cherry blossoms.

This incredible garden is next to the castle grounds.

熊野古道 Kumano Kodo

As our time in Japan came to a close, we dreamed of trekking sections of the “Kumano Kodo” pilgrimage paths on the Kii Peninsula. For the route we set out upon called the “Kohechi” we began in an ancient cemetary at the temple complex on Mt. Koya, and traversed the ridges and valleys heading south to “Hongu Taisha” the heart of Kumano country. From there we would follow the “Nakahechi” trail to the southern coast via “Nachi Taisha” and “Hayatama Taisha,” and continue along the shore until Kushimoto on the “Ohechi.”

This area is famous for unique hybrids of Buddhist and Shinto practices. These mountains are considered a steep and mysterious place that the gods have descended and touched with grace. The pilgrimage and trade routes have been established at least 400 years, dating to monks who wrote poetry of the journey. People traveled from the old capitals of Kyoto and Nara to visit the three famous temple/shrines (taisha) listed above, as well as “Ise-ji” to the east. As a pilgrimage it was considered to be purifying, and indeed the hot springs found along the way ensure that the weary pilgrim is clean.

It was a relief to get off the trains and on the trail at Koya-san. We followed a road through tall cedars and an ancient graveyard before leaving town prior to sundown. The road goes up onto the ridge above the temple village into timber country.

Upward Downward Onward


























With some effort and much excitement we arrived at Hongu Taisha.





With the exception of the small villages, we saw very few people. Some nice quiet trails and campsites.










We developed a fondness for sleeping under bridges.
When we lived in Wakayama we often saw posters of a red pagoda next to a beautiful dragon god waterfall. We learned it is Nachi no Otaki where two gods are present, the Taisha (temple) and the waterfall itself. After two full days of hiking, this was our next stop after Hongu. We stumbled with our packs down the stone stairs into the very well kept mountainside village next to the waterfall. Stopping into a shop for a bite to eat, we asked for accommodation recommendations. Soon the whole family was involved in graciously assisting us. We chatted with the mother while the father called on the phone. I could hear him say that I apparently could speak Japanese. Sure enough, he found us a spot barely 50 feet down the hill from where we were. Their daughter led the way down the steps through a weathered but stately straw thatch gate. The friendly proprietor seemed to speak at light speed in a country dialect so we smiled a lot and said “Hai” as best we could. He showed us to our room with tatami flooring a kotasu on the floor and futon in the closet. The paper doors opened right up to tall sunny windows and a very old traditional garden. Here are three views of the entrance at different times of day.

The spread of food was simply amazing. It is diffucult to imagine from the picture I think.

Nachi Taisha honors Kannon (skrt. Avalokiteshvara) and is said to have an image of the goddess that was found in the pool under the waterfall by a man who washed ashore from India in the fifth century. This is one way in which Shinto and Buddhism have become intertwined in the area.

With some help from Japan’s friendly railways, we concluded our Kumano sanzan journey at Hayatama Taisha.

By means of trains and short walks, we traveled west along the coast to the hot spring beach resort Shirahama (white beach).















There was a glow.

Goodbye to friends in Yamanashi

We made some good friends in Yamanashi, and we hope to see them again someday.

鎌倉の大仏 Kamakura no Daibustu (the Great Buddha at Kamakura)

On a recent trip to Tokyo we took a side trip to see the famous bronze Amita Buddha statue at Kamakura. It was cast in 1252 and housed in a large temple. In 1498 a tidal wave swept away the temple, and the statue has been exposed to the elements ever since. The statue is about 44ft. tall and weighs about 121 tons. Seeing it in person inspired a sense of awe and admiration for the artists' skill.

東京で in Tokyo

In Tokyo we continue to see many facinating things. Here are some paper animal sculptures we saw in a stationary store. I don't think they qualify as true origami because of the apparent cutting and gluing, but they are fun to look at all the same.



Presumably a sales demonstration, a woman is making stamps to decorate postcards. It is difficult to see the cards in this picture, but they look realy nice.

歌舞伎座 Kabuki-za (traditional Japanese theater)

We went to Tokyo to see a form of traditional Japanese theater called "Kabuki." We stood in line to get tickets for standing in the back. Lukily some seats opened up, but we couldn't sit together.

The performance we saw was probably the most famous in Kabuki, "Kanadehon Chushingura" (The Treasure of 47 Loyal Retainers). As with all Kabuki, it was based on true historical events. The story was about a samurai who is provoked to draw his sword in the shogun's palace, which results in a death sentence for which he is allowed the dignity of suicide. His 47 retainers proceed to avenge his death.

I must admit that I found the show to be a bit slow. There wasn't much movement on stage. I suspect that if I could have seen the actors' subtle movements up close it may have been more interesting.

Since there was no photography allowed in the theater these pictures are from the outside of the theater. The artwork depicts scenes from the show.

五味先生 Gomi-sensei

Mrs. Gomi has been my Japanese teacher since April, 2006. We found each other through the International Center’s Japanese teaching volunteer program. We meet for two hours on Tuesdays and Thursdays to read out of the textbook and study grammar, etc. She has been so nice to Beth and I. Every time she comes over she brings a new culinary delight for us to try. She often helps by explaining bills or other letters we get in the mail. She has even taken us out on short trips in the area. I know that I could never have passed my Japanese language proficiency test without her. She is very energetic, and has a great sense of humor. She has been our closest Japanese friend in Yamanashi. She doesn’t like the camera very much, so the only decent picture I have is the one below at the Jizo festival.

厄地蔵尊祭 yaku-jizou-son matsuri (god for small children festival)

My Japanese teacher Gomi-sensei took Beth and I to an annual local festival. The festival was in honor of "Jizo" the god who looks after small children. Jizo is a cute little god that everyone loves, but he also has another purpose; women who have trouble becoming pregnant or those who have stillbirths or abortions will often pray to Jizo. You may have seen his image before; he is often depicted by small doll-like statues with colored garments. First we walked up to the temple and threw some money in the donation box. I bought a decorated arrow that is supposed to keep bad things out of the house. Then we joined the crowd perusing the food being sold in shop stalls lining the street. Oishikatta! (it was delicious!)

七面山本社 Shichimenzan Honsha (temple on the seven-sided mountain)

This is the tale of our winter hiking day-trip adventure to Shichimen-zan, a mountain temple nearby and affiliated with the Nichiren Temple at Minobu-san. We had been thinking of hiking up this mountain since we learned about it during our visit to Minobu-san. At 6503 ft. the mountain is considerably higher than its neighbor Minobu-san. As always, our access to good maps is limited; getting to a point of departure and determining if our plan is feasible often involves untold variables. The night before we planned to go, we decided to call our friends and neighbors Matt and Julie with whom we climbed Fuji-san. Luckily, they decided to go and offered to drive. In retrospect, I don’t think we could ever have made it without them because the trailhead was too far from the nearest train station.

On the way, my navigation skills managed to get us up the wrong canyon. Matt and Julie drive a “K-car.” A K-car is the small Japanese cars that are usually a bit smaller than a Honda Civic and run on 3 cylinders. The wrong turn I led us up was very steep with tight switchbacks. We were all very worried that the four of us were too much for the car to carry up such a grade. When we were about to park and start walking, I realized my error and informed the group. Everyone was surprisingly forgiving, and we proceeded to go back down the road and up the much better road to our intended destination.

After an inspection of the cartoon map at the trailhead, we began our ascent. It was a little cloudy, but otherwise a nice crisp early spring day. As we climbed, the intermittent patches of ice became more and more frequent until the whole trail became covered with snow. Close to the summit, we reached a large gateway and then climbed some snow-covered stairs that led up to a bell house. We then made a short descent into what seemed like an old crater where we found the main temple complex sitting next to a large pond. It seemed as though we were the only people there. A large visitor’s center at the far end of the complex (where we had hoped to eat) was closed for the winter. As we came closer to the main temple building we noticed a small plume of smoke rising from an adjacent building. We later saw a monk quickly scurry by from that building to the main temple. It was strange to explore such a large and beautiful temple without the usual throngs of visitors. I suppose that was the reward for having trudged through the snow.

The summit was clearly visible and just a short distance, but we all opted to return to the vehicle and seek out some warm food.

長野へスキーに行きました。We Went Skiing in Nagano

We went on a ski trip with the local “JET” group to a resort called “Hakuba.” The name “Nagano” may sound familiar, it was the site of the 1998 winter Olympics. Nagano is home to Japan’s highest mountains, although the snow is best in Hokkaido. On the drive there it began to snow, which was very exciting because we had heard the snow hadn’t been so good in previous weeks. The weather was in our favor, and as long as human error was limited, it looked like the makings for a good weekend. We were a little worried that the JET crew would be heavier on the drunken debauchery and lighter on the winter sports, but it was no problem getting our tickets on Saturday morning and hitting the slopes. The snow was great and a good time was had by all.

衛臨時 Erinji Temple

Halloween

Beth went out to an event where she read a story for some kids. She also met some guys dressed up in the train station.

Beth Conducts the Tokyo Philharmonic. . . . . . . . (for real!)

One of the elementary schools I work with had the opportunity to listen to this world renouned orchestra. I discovered another reason why it pays to be visibly different. Out of a crowd of about 500 people, the conductor chose me to be guest conductor. Truly a memorable experience!

身延山 Mt. Minobu

This weekend we went on an adventure to a nearby Buddhist monastery mountain complex called 身延山 “Minobu-san.” It was founded by Nichiren Shonin (1222-1282) on June 17th, 1274, when he was forced to conceal himself in the mountains by the ruling government. There he dedicated himself to the recitation of the Lotus Sutra and the education of his disciples. His teachings have survived to the present day by means of an uninterrupted lineage, and the monastery continues to thrive.

Below is a small statue of Nichiren


The main entry gate is built in such an impressive fashion, the way only the Japanese can build a gate. After passing through the gate, there is a set of 287 stone steps dating to the 17th century. These steps lead to the main temple complex.


There are many different styles of buildings in the main complex, all with a different function. The buildings were bridged together, presumably to make going from one to the next easier when the mountain is covered with a thick blanket of snow. Below is an assortment of pictures from those buildings.


This bell tower shows off some Japanese carpentry techniques.


As always the case in Japan, the gardens are incredible. It is often difficult to distinguish where building, garden, and forest end or begin.






This drum is larger than life. It’s mallet looked like a large baseball bat!


Intricate painted carvings adorn the porch ceiling.







This building manages to combine traditional and modern styles quite nicely.


I think this screen painting depicts Bodhi Dharma, the first Chinese patriarch.


I like how the camera’s flash reflected off the glass.


Behind the main temple, a path leads up the mountain. Most people prefer to take a sky tram to the top, but we chose the more arduous route. Along the way we saw many more small shrines and enormous cedars.


Beth poses for perspective.


Here a large Buddha statue stands behind the glass, with the tall trees reflecting.


We finally made it to the summit (3765 ft.), where the views of Mt. Fuji and the Fuji river made for a good sense of accomplishment.




There are some smaller shrines at the top.

運動会 Sports Day

Beth and I each attended a sports day at our respective schools. Many parents came to watch and it was big fun for all the kids.

富士山 に上った! We Climbed Mt. Fuji!

Everyone should climb Mt. Fuji at least once in their lifetime, but only a fool or a masochist would climb it twice. Prior to our departure some of us joked about how Japanese people tend to exaggerate the difficulty of things. We concluded that this would likely be little more than a walk in the park, but I think that now we would all agree that we were mistaken. At about 8:00 on Saturday night we set out with our motley crew of foreigners to ascend the most climbed mountain in the world. We started out from the 5th station (7560 ft.) for a vertical rise of 4825 ft. The weather was perfect, a full moon illuminated the low lying sea of clouds and lit our way as we chased it into the higher realms of the sky.


As we made our way past the 8th station (80% of the way) the temperature began to drop quickly.


It took us 7 hours to reach the summit, which was a little too fast because we had to wait more than two hours for the sun to rise. We had brought a lot of extra clothes but not enough for the 12,385 ft. elevation. It felt like about 20 degrees. We tried to take a nap, but that didn’t work so well. Nothing to do but wait as the masses of people began to arrive. Finally after what seemed like a lot more than 2+ hrs., the sun rose at 5:16 am.












And there was great celebration. . .


Every year about 200,000 people climb Fuji-san, 30% of them are foreigners.


Below is the view of the summit from across the crater. The crater is 2300 ft. wide and 722 ft. deep. Fuji has erupted at least 16 times since 781 AD. Most of these eruptions were moderate to medium in size. The most recent eruption was in 1707-1708. It is still considered to be an active volcano.


The shadow of the mountain viewed from the summit.



The way down was a bit less glamorous. After the sun rose the temperature changed from about 20 degrees to what seemed like at least 70. I started to get a sun burn, and whenever I sat down I quickly began to fall asleep. It was dusty and the descent hurt our toes, but after about four hours we made it to the 5th station where we had started. When I think of all the hills I have been up and down, I don’t know if I have ever been so happy to reach the end.

火祭 Fire Festival

Here are some pictures from the Fire Festival in Fujiyoshida. There was lots of food and fire, as well as some traditional Taiko (drum) groups.

Here is a video of some Taiko (drumming) at the festival.

明治神宮 Meiji-Jingu, Tokyo

We visited a temple complex and park in Tokyo called Meiji-Jingu. It is located right next to one of the busiest commercial areas in the city, and yet it is so quiet and very few people walk the paths through the old gardens.

Here is a picture of the emperor’s tea house that sits on a small rise overlooking a pond.













Prayers written in many languages hang on a wall that encircles a massive tree in the temple complex.














Business men have come to say a prayer, probably to help seal an important deal. They lay down their briefcases and throw some money in the coffer, then clap their hands and pray quietly.

Check out these comics!

Here is a funny site Beth found with lots of comics that sum up our situation pretty well. http://www.angelfire.com/comics/esid/archive.htm

ゴオルデン・ウイイクと佐渡島 Golden Week and Sado ga Shima

Here are some pictures from our recent excursion to Sado ga Shima, an Island in the Sea of Japan. The rugged coastline with small fishing villages and traditional architecture was the way I had hoped Japan would be. We met some real nice people and got to ride a "jet foil." Beth goes on to detail the process by which we arrived there and the ensuing adventures below.









GOLDEN WEEK: A national holiday when EVERYONE (almost) gets five days of vacation time. This means - bumper to bumper traffic, standing room only on the trains and hotel after booked hotel, but at least I can pick Thomas out in a crowd.

I wanted to go hiking in the mountains and explore Yamanashi-ken since we just moved here. After all, if we’re in the mountains we just have to pitch a tent and voila! We can pack our own food, speak in English and get some exercise – no surprises, no funny stuff.

Thomas wanted to head north to the Sea of Japan. “Let’s go on a real adventure”, he says. O.K., O.K. I consulted the map and located the Sea of Japan. “If you want the Sea of Japan, there’s an island called Sado ga Shima”, I said. Thus, it was decided.

With no reservations, we caught a train to Nagano through the ear poppingly scenic sights of the 1998(?) Olympics.

We decided to stop and check out an onsen (Japanese hotspring) and stay the night in Ueda. Here are some pictures taken in the small mountain hamlet.


In Ueda we stopped at the tourist information booth to ask about accommodations. After about eight phone calls, we found out that there were no vacancies. (hmmmmm….) Then a mysterious man just showed up behind us and said, “They can stay in my room. Follow me.” I must admit I was a little weirded-out by this and felt really uncomfortable. But, you must step out of your comfort zone to experience the things you won’t see in your comfortable day-to-day. Right? His name was Ken; he was an excellent cook and took us all around the city to see some sights. Here is a picture of him cooking dinner for us.

Every area in Japan is touted for one thing or another. Yamanashi (where we live now) is known for wine – I think it tastes like rice wine vinegar, but that doesn’t stop me from drinking it. Sado ga Shima, our vacation destination, has a unique place in Japanese history. In the 18th century, a number of people were banished from the mainland for various reasons. The common thread being individual thought that did not coincide with the Emperor's views. Among the exiled were Nichiren; a Buddhist monk that started his own sect, Noh theatre actors, and the homeless. The homeless were forced to mine for gold. Roughly 80 tons of gold and over 2,000 tons of silver were mined under slave labor.
Here is a picture of Nichiren and the spot where he prayed every day.



Here is some crazy seafood we had at our favorite hostel on Sado. Yes, that is raw shrimp in the top center. A few months back I decided I am not going to eat that anymore due to its super slimy texture. Pictured at the top left side is a kind of squid (whole), the head had something really crunchy which I think were the eyeballs. Add another food to the don't eat list.

小学校 Shougakkou (elementary school)

We have now begun our new Jobs with Interac in public elementary schools. Beth works between three and I two. The kids are so great to work with.

私達のアパート Our Apartment

We have relocated to Yamanashi-ken. We signed a year contract to teach in five different elementary schools. We live in the city now, which has its pluses and minuses – but the view is grand! Here is the view from our balcony.

We also have some unfamiliar household electronics, a digital hot water thermostat, an intercom for speaking to someone at the door, an ADSL modem that uses old copper wires for high-speed internet, a remote control for the heater/air-conditioner, and an electronic toilet with too many functions to list. As if the gadgets aren't complicated enough, all the controls are in Japanese!