熊野古道 Kumano Kodo

As our time in Japan came to a close, we dreamed of trekking sections of the “Kumano Kodo” pilgrimage paths on the Kii Peninsula. For the route we set out upon called the “Kohechi” we began in an ancient cemetary at the temple complex on Mt. Koya, and traversed the ridges and valleys heading south to “Hongu Taisha” the heart of Kumano country. From there we would follow the “Nakahechi” trail to the southern coast via “Nachi Taisha” and “Hayatama Taisha,” and continue along the shore until Kushimoto on the “Ohechi.”

This area is famous for unique hybrids of Buddhist and Shinto practices. These mountains are considered a steep and mysterious place that the gods have descended and touched with grace. The pilgrimage and trade routes have been established at least 400 years, dating to monks who wrote poetry of the journey. People traveled from the old capitals of Kyoto and Nara to visit the three famous temple/shrines (taisha) listed above, as well as “Ise-ji” to the east. As a pilgrimage it was considered to be purifying, and indeed the hot springs found along the way ensure that the weary pilgrim is clean.

It was a relief to get off the trains and on the trail at Koya-san. We followed a road through tall cedars and an ancient graveyard before leaving town prior to sundown. The road goes up onto the ridge above the temple village into timber country.

Upward Downward Onward


























With some effort and much excitement we arrived at Hongu Taisha.





With the exception of the small villages, we saw very few people. Some nice quiet trails and campsites.










We developed a fondness for sleeping under bridges.
When we lived in Wakayama we often saw posters of a red pagoda next to a beautiful dragon god waterfall. We learned it is Nachi no Otaki where two gods are present, the Taisha (temple) and the waterfall itself. After two full days of hiking, this was our next stop after Hongu. We stumbled with our packs down the stone stairs into the very well kept mountainside village next to the waterfall. Stopping into a shop for a bite to eat, we asked for accommodation recommendations. Soon the whole family was involved in graciously assisting us. We chatted with the mother while the father called on the phone. I could hear him say that I apparently could speak Japanese. Sure enough, he found us a spot barely 50 feet down the hill from where we were. Their daughter led the way down the steps through a weathered but stately straw thatch gate. The friendly proprietor seemed to speak at light speed in a country dialect so we smiled a lot and said “Hai” as best we could. He showed us to our room with tatami flooring a kotasu on the floor and futon in the closet. The paper doors opened right up to tall sunny windows and a very old traditional garden. Here are three views of the entrance at different times of day.

The spread of food was simply amazing. It is diffucult to imagine from the picture I think.

Nachi Taisha honors Kannon (skrt. Avalokiteshvara) and is said to have an image of the goddess that was found in the pool under the waterfall by a man who washed ashore from India in the fifth century. This is one way in which Shinto and Buddhism have become intertwined in the area.

With some help from Japan’s friendly railways, we concluded our Kumano sanzan journey at Hayatama Taisha.

By means of trains and short walks, we traveled west along the coast to the hot spring beach resort Shirahama (white beach).















There was a glow.